By Ashley Ahearn
MUKILTEO, Wash. – In a dark fish tank at a government-run lab, a striking sea snail slowly inches from its hiding spot.
It’s a pinto abalone, and its numbers are dangerously low in Washington state after decades of overharvesting and poaching. This little-known animal is a delicacy, still served in U.S. restaurants, and its shell is a source of mother-of-pearl.
At the lab here, biologist Josh Bouma peers down at the abalone. “They really like dark overhangs,” he says. “They like to be in places where they feel safe, so they hang out on the undersides.”
This instinct to stay hidden hasn’t been enough to keep the pinto abalone safe from humans, who favor its ruby red shell and edible flesh. The pinto abalone’s historical West Coast range spanned marine waters from Baja California to Alaska. But in Washington and elsewhere, rampant poaching and a loosely regulated recreational fishery pushed the pinto abalone close to extinction.
Bouma is a shellfish biologist with the Puget Sound Restoration Fund. He’s part of a team that’s raising these creatures in a hatchery run by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Once they reach full maturity, the abalone are released into the wild with the hope of reversing the species’ downward spiral.
“It’s the only (type of) abalone that we have in Washington,” Bouma said. “We have a responsibility to protect and restore the things that are unique to this ecosystem.”
Bouma flips the abalone over onto its back and within seconds out snaps a long tongue-looking foot that it promptly and comically uses to flip itself back over.
That long foot has been the source of a lot of trouble for this species. It’s a delicacy coveted in Asia and enjoyed in fine restaurants around the world. The pinto abalone’s beautiful shell, rough and red on the outside and pearly soft pink on the inside, makes it a desirable trinket for divers in Puget Sound. Pinto abalone have been listed as a "species of concern" by NOAA since 2004.
Harvesting pinto abalone is no longer legal in California, Oregon or Washington. Alaska still has a recreational fishery.
Wildlife managers believe Washington's population of pinto abalone has declined by more than 92 percent since the early 1990s.
“We’re going places where there should be wild abalone and they’re not there,” said Bob Sizemore, a research scientist with the state Department of Fish and Wildlife. “We’re not seeing any wild juveniles at all, and we haven’t for 20 years.”
'Abalone Made' Pinto abalone poaching in Puget Sound was rampant in the late 1980s and early to mid-1990s. People were poaching tens of thousands of abalone and selling them to local restaurants, markets and overseas.
Seattle Times reporter Craig Welch was covering marine science for the paper in the 1990s when he first became aware of the issue of shellfish poaching in Puget Sound. Welch wrote a book, Shell Games: Rogues, Smugglers And The Hunt For Nature’s Bounty.
The book profiled a man named Dave Ferguson and how he profited from poached pinto abalone around Port Angeles. According to Welch, Ferguson made enough money to buy himself a new Jeep Cherokee and a fishing boat named the Abalone Made.
When Department of Fish and Wildlife cops busted him in 1994, Ferguson confessed and later became an informant, according to the book.
“Dave Ferguson was very good at it. He would get out on the water and sidle up to people and chat them up,” Welch said. “He was rough around the edges and nobody would have suspected a guy like that was working with the cops and he started feeding them information.”
One day, Ferguson’s boat exploded when he was on board. He spent weeks in the hospital and swore that it was sabotage and that other poachers were out to get him. He eventually resigned as an informant, headed to Alaska and, Welch writes, “was never heard from again.” Ferguson never paid a fine or did any jail time for his poaching.
Efforts to locate Ferguson for this story were unsuccessful.
Wildlife managers believe Ferguson trafficked between 25,000 and 40,000 illegally harvested abalone. And they have reason to believe he was not alone in harvesting more abalone than the law allows. Video.